Off to Opuwo

My dear family and friends,

Last weekend I had the opportunity to travel to a traditional Himba village just outside of the town of Opuwo. Opuwo is about an 8 hour drive north from Windhoek. Some people have asked me about the roads here in Namibia; they are very good. The highways are better than those back home on the Island. The non-main gravel and dirt roads are not so nice, but that is to be expected.  

Though the roads up until Opuwo were very good, driving is still an interesting feat. This cow is only one of many cows, goats, ostriches, baboons, warthogs, guinea fowl, donkeys, and even kudu, that we saw on the roads during our travels. 

The Himba people are a most interesting ethnic group. More than any other tribe in Namibia, the Himbas are still living culturally traditional lives, with very little influence from western culture. They are a semi-nomadic, semi-pastoral people, raising both goats and cattle for their livelihood. On occasion, the women will also make the long journey to the town of Opuwo, or some even all the way to Windhoek, to sell their jewelry. Beauty plays a significant role in the Himba culture. Though the women never bathe, each morning they apply a red-coloured cream made from butter and ochre. Hairstyles are determined by age and marital status, as is the jewelry with which they adorn themselves. The women are topless, and wear skirts made from animal hide. Children and men also wear skirts made of various fabrics. Some men who spend a great deal of time in town dress more modernly.

The Himba tribe is found solely in the region known as Kaokoland, and according to Wikipedia (accurate source, I know), there are between 20 and 50 thousand Himba people. They are closely related to the Herero tribe and speak the same language (Otjiherero). Most of the children do not go to school and so English is not known in most villages. Each village consists of a number of compounds which are quite far apart as one is not visible from the other. Every family has their own compound ( a bushed area which will have a fenced area for goats, a 'holy fire', and a number of huts (depending on how many wives the chief has)). 

In order to go into a village, my roommate Hannah, our friend Imogen, and myself, traveled with a local guide, Elia, who is part Himba himself. After packing our camping gear in Opuwo, we drove another 65-70km north until Elia said to turn. My first thought was 'where?' as I could see no road and nothing in the distance. But turn we did, and minutes later a village appeared.

 

The 'holy fire' is found under the tree on the right hand side. The fenced area in the center of the compound is for the goats... theoretically. They were usually just wandering around everywhere. This area is also used for milking cows. 

When we arrived, Elia got out and went to get the chief's permission for us to visit. They had no idea we were coming. One of many examples of how laid-back and easy going the culture is. One of the many reasons why I love Africa.

Even though we declined the offer to be his new wives, the chief agreed to let us stay. We went around the compound to meet the different family members. Elia shared all kinds of information with us about the Himba people and their culture. He served as a translator and answered many questions we had in terms of the faith and beliefs of the tribe, their traditions, and their daily life in general. He also did a lot of translating for the Himbas as they were very curious about us and our lives. They found us to be very young to be traveling the world, yet quite old to not be married with children. They asked if our hair was real, and wanted to touch it numerous times. They wondered if our parents put clips on our noses when we were little to make them small, and one lady, noticing my turned out feet from my dancing days, asked if I was disabled. Though communication was not easy, we shared many laughs and had much fun.

During our stay we got to go see where the families in the village get their water. Each family must dig their own well, and they are bushed in order to keep to animals from falling in. A trip to get water is be made everyday. Water is poured in a trough for the animals, and some is carried back by the women, or on a donkey for the family's use.

On the road for water!

Yes, that is the water down there.

The animals must be so thirsty in this hot weather.

Though we did not carry water back on our heads, we did get to go and collect firewood and carry it back in traditional African style - not an easy task. We had to use a hand to help balance the load, but I will say that it is a highly efficient method. Maybe one day I will master the skill.

Ready to go! ... well... as ready as we could be.

The Himba women are strong. It is very impressive to watch them walk effortlessly with the wood on their heads. 

We made it back with the wood without dropping a piece. Here is a picture of Hannah sitting by our fire.

Of everything that happened, what truly made the weekend was the chance to play with the kiddoes. It was so much fun to spend time with them and just show them love. Words are a powerful tool in communication, yet it is also amazing how much can be communicated without them.These children loved attention, and I certainly loved giving it to them.  

Getting my new Himba-do.

I taught the girls a few clapping games as we tried to find some shade from the hot afternoon sun.

This little guy was not so happy.

Imogen getting a big hug.

Peek-a-boo

Here's Hannah showing the kids a picture of themselves. They loved it, and so did the adults in the village.

These kids were precious. It was such a joy to spend time with them.

I have many stories to share about our weekend in Opuwo, but I hope this will at least wet your appetite to ask questions and to find out more about this people group. I am so thankful to have had the opportunity to spend time in a village; it was an experience I will not soon forget. Thank you so much for your prayers, the Lord worked in powerful and surprising ways. We sometimes can never guess His plans, but we can trust that they are good, and for that I am truly grateful. Please continue to pray for the Himba people.

Thanks for reading!

With much love,
~Heather


" For I know the plans I have for you,” declares the LORD, “plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future. Then you will call on me and come and pray to me, and I will listen to you. You will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart. I will be found by you,” declares the LORD..."   - Jeremiah 29:11-14